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Here is my suggested Basic Set-up sheet for X4'23 and below all details: HERE

I received many requests to post my set-up from the XRS R2 when many drivers wrote to me that my car looked very good in the videos and they were interested to see what I used. I decided to also add some extra information about the set-up I used which I hope can be useful for many of you and you will better understand how to set the X4'23 for various traction conditions.

Hudy Arena is a very technical and high grip track. Big advantage for these kinds of tracks are the new XLP shocks which makes the car more stable and easier to drive in the chicanes and also provide more cornering speed. I use upper shock mounting on the shock towers as for modified racing you need a more reactive car but for stock racing the bottom shock mounting is better as the car is more round and stable. I use PSS in both front and rear shocks. PSS in front gives me more steering into the corner, while rear PSS gives me more steering from mid to exit of the corner steering. For stock I would rather suggest 4 holes 1.1 pistons with 350 shock oil (basic set-up setting). With this setting the car is very stable and easy to drive and the steering characteristics does not change during the cornering like it is with PSS.

Thanks to the XLP shocks and their stability, I am able to use softer diff oil compared to X4'22 ULP shocks which improves the traction and also steering characteristics in the tight corners. I am using 7K diff with my X4'23 in this high traction track, while with X4'22 I had to use 8K or 9K diff as the car was difficult to drive in the chicanes and harder diff helped me in these sections but the disadvantage was that it removed the low speed steering in tight sections and decreased rear traction of the car which is with the X4'23 not an issue anymore.

I am using kit springs but with a softer 1.2 anti-roll bar. This gives me more low speed steering in the tight section. I also like to use the 1.3 front anti-roll bar but with C2.4-2.7 springs. It provides the same feeling like a harder spring with a softer bar. If you drive at the tracks with many chicanes and you feel the car is difficult in these sections as the front is rolling too much, then the kit combo springs C2.5-2.8 and 1.3 anti-roll bar is the best choice. But if you feel you would like to get more low speed steering, you can try either a softer spring or the anti-roll bar and it would help you in these sections.

I am also using optional front soft upper arms. Standard M arms are very good for reactivity and provide quick direction change but in case you drive in high grip traction tracks with long sweepers and you feel that the car is difficult to drive in sweepers and the car is edgy, soft front upper arms will take this edginess away and will make the car nicely smooth and round. I am using M kit arms in the rear as they provide very good off-power steering and rotation, but in case you drive in low grip conditions, S rear upper arms will help you to generate more rear grip and will make the car easier to drive.

Because of the soft front upper arms, the car is smooth and round but has less reactivity and in-corner steering. I solved this issue with 7.5 steering which improves the steering in all parts of the corner. I think this steering is mainly beneficial for the modified class but can be a good option also for stock in case you are missing in-corner steering.

I am also using H hubs which generate more overall traction which also means more steering as they provide more front grip. I would suggest using these hubs at the races when the carpet gets oily from the additive and you start to feel the car is more floaty and pushy. The H hubs will give you that "more connected to the track" feeling. But if the carpet is not oily, G standard hubs are a better choice as the car is more free. In case you feel your car is aggressive and has too much steering, alu hubs will make the car more stable and more round.

Normally I use standard kit 2mm top decks on the carpet. The special front wave reinforcement improves steering response and also is more predictable compared to open shape so for most of the carpet conditions is the best choice. The 2mm rear top deck gives you great stability but in case you feel the car is too stable and does not steer enough of power, then I suggest using only one screw or even 1.6mm optional top deck in the rear which would allow you to flex the rear part of the chassis more which improves rotation.

Normally I prefer to use the spool and the diff in the low position as they generate more traction, but when the traction is high and carpet is oily, the upper position would help to improve steering and rotation. I never liked this setting with X4'22 on the carpet as the car was more nervous, but thanks to XLP shocks the car is now more stable and forgiving and I found the upper position beneficial in these traction conditions.

I am using 48/52 weight balance to get the rotation and off power steering. Normally I used to drive 49/51 balance in medium-high traction conditions but again thanks to the stability of the XLP shocks, now I can go up to 48/52 without the fear that the car would be too loose and difficult. If you drive in low grip conditions, then I suggest using 50/50 as with more weight to the front, more front traction and stability you get. But if you lose rotation in the tight 180 corners, more weight in the rear is a quick set-up solution.

I hope I explained all the necessary information about my set-up and you find it beneficial and you will find some set-up suggestions that would fit your track as well.

If you have any questions please join us in discussion at our FB group at HERE