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General

Q: What is difference between T1 EVO2 and T1R? 
A: The T1 Evo2 is the evolution of the original T1. This car was designed with top competition in mind, and has graphite chassis parts and pivot ball suspension. The 2003 version of the T1 Evo2 has both pivot ball suspension and C-hub suspension included in the kit. The T1R follows the same basic design as the T1 Evo2, although it uses molded composite components instead of graphite. This car was designed to be a more affordable touring car, while still having all of the top-quality and pure design of the T1 line.


Q: How much is the T1R? 
A: The price of the T1R depends where you buy the kit, and import duties, transport fees, local VAT are all different all around the world. Please contact your local dealer for pricing information.


Q: How much value do I get in comparison to other cars in the market? 
A: The T1R provides the best proportion of quality/performance/price in the market today. This is because of the high-quality design and craftsmanship that evolved directly from the original T1 designs.


Q: Why should I buy this car? 
A: The T1R shares the same highest-quality design and craftsmanship of all the other XRAY cars, which gained international acclaim as the “best crafted touring car in the world” and also had the best performance at tracks around the world (US Stock National Champion, European Vice-Champion, German National Champion, World Championship Finalist, and multiple National Champion. Since the T1R is based on the highly-successful T1 concept, it is a competition-ready racecar that shares a large amount of the same components, and has all the same adjustability as the T1 Evo2.


Q: Where can I purchase this car? 
A: You can purchase the T1R from any authorized XRAY dealer. Please contact your dealer, or email us at info@teamxray.com to get information where to get the any XRAY products in your area.


Q: Do you provide sponsorship? 
A: XRAY is proud to provide sponsorship to qualified top-level drivers, who become part of Team XRAY. Please send your resume to support@teamxray.com that will be forwarded to the local distributor responsible for Team XRAY in your country.


Q: What is guarantee on the parts? 
A: XRAY guarantees that all parts of a newly-purchased kit are manufactured with the highest regard to quality. However, due to the many factors inherent in model racecar competition, we cannot guarantee any parts once you start racing the car.


Q: Is it difficult to assemble the car? 
A: The T1R was designed with ease of assembly in mind. Built from only highest-quality components, and featuring simplified suspension components, the T1R guarantees the easiest possible assembly. Read through the step-by-step full-color instruction manual, complete with detailed explanations of all assembly steps. We have prepared this instruction manual directly from Pro/Engineer 3D screen exports. We have added text to clearly describe everything you need to know to build your T1R correctly and easily.


Q: Is it difficult to set up the car? 
A: The C-hub suspension was designed to be set up and run out-of-the-box without having to use a set-up system. However, for fine-tuning your car setup, a set-up system can be used. We highly recommend the Hudy Ultimate Set-Up System #108250 that includes all necessary set-up tools for complete suspension tuning.


Q: With all the “sport-level” cars on the market, why would I choose the XRAY T1R? 
A: The T1R shares the same highest-quality design and craftsmanship of all the other XRAY cars, which gained international acclaim as the “best crafted touring car in the world” and also has the best performance at tracks around the world (US Stock National Champion, European Vice-Champion, German National Champion, World Championship Finalist, and multiple National Champion. Since the T1R is based on the highly-successful T1 concept, it is a competition-ready racecar that shares a large amount of the same components, and has all the same adjustability as the T1 Evo2.
The T1R provides the best proportion of quality/performance/price in the market today.


Q: Will the T1R be made available as an RTR? 
A: At this time, the T1R is only offered in kit form.


Q: Can I convert my T1R into a T1 Evo2? 
A: It is possible to replace T1R parts to create a T1 EVO2, though this would not be very cost-effective. We would advise rather to purchase the whole new T1 EVO2 kit. On the other hand if you want to use just certain parts, like graphite parts, you can do it easily. All parts are compatible.


Q: Can I put the pivotball suspension on the T1R? Will there be an upgrade kit? 
A: You can indeed put the pivotball suspension on the T1R by replacing the appropriate parts. There is currently no upgrade kit available. However, the C-hub suspension was designed to be set up and run out-of-the-box without having to use a set-up system. By it's nature, pivotball suspension requires more setup than C-hub suspension.


Q: If the T1R is a “sport-level” car, can I still use it in a modified class? Will it still be competitive? 
A: The T1R is equally competitive in either stock or modified classes. It is at the same performance level as any other current touring car.


Q: Why were ball-bearings used instead of bushings? Don’t they cost more? 
A: We felt that a full ball-bearing set greatly increases the performance and reliability of any kit, and therefore included them as standard.


Q: What parts are interchangeable between the T1R and the T1 Evo2? 
A: All parts are interchangeable between the T1R and the T1 Evo2.


Q: Why does the T1R not have an adjustable central one-way? 
A: The adjustable central one-way is used for very fine tuning for very certain racing conditions. That is why the solid central layshaft in the T1R can be used in most racing conditions and is the best part to start with. You can easily mount the central one-way by purchasing the #305500 Main Layshaft with Central One-way.


Q: Can I use any spurs/pinions in the T1R, or must I use only those from XRAY? 
A: The included spur gear is a state-of-the-art XRAY 48-pitch spur gear. We suggest using XRAY spur gears that provide the highest performance. They have been injected through center of the gear providing the maximum run-in quality and zero tolerance. The spur gears are injected from special composite to provide long life, minimum wear, and enable perfect gear mesh. Most of the other spur gears will fit the main layshaft as well.


Q: What pinion gear is included in the kit? 
A: This kit does not include a pinion gear, as it is expected this car will be used for both modified and stock racing, which require different pinion gears. Therefore, use the appropriate pinion gear for the class in which you will be racing your T1R.


Q: What is not included in the kit? 
A: The T1R does not include following items: radio system (transmitter and receiver), steering servo, speed controller, motor, pinion gear, battery pack (6-cell) battery charger, 1/10-scale bodyshell (190 mm), tires, inserts, double-sided tape, CA glue, bearing oil.


Q: What additional items are included in the kit? 
A: The T1R includes following items: turnbuckle tool, grease, shock oil, tool for belt tension adjustment and a last aid hardware package that includes one of each of the hardware material used for assembling the kit.


Q: Even though you say the T1R can be run without using a set-up system, can I still use one to set up the car? 
A: Yes, the T1R can be set up using a set-up system. We highly recommend the Hudy Ultimate Set-Up System #108250.


Q: You state that T1R can be run without using a set-up system, but in the Set-Up Book you describe setting up the car with plenty of set-up tools. Why is that? 
A: While building the T1R you do not need to use any set-up tools. The car will have after assembly pre-set set-up that is the best starting point. Without any additional set-up tools you can easily change wheelbase my moving clips, rear toe-in by adding clips, caster by changing caster block, anti-squat and anti-dive by altering the whole suspension through two screws, front toe-in by tightening the front turnbuckles and camber by tightening the upper links. For these basic settings now set-up tools are needed. Of course for very precise and fine tuning or simply experimenting with different settings, a set-up system can be used. If you decide to invest in a set-up system, we highly recommend the Hudy Ultimate Set-Up System #108250 that includes all necessary set-up tools for complete geometry setting.


Q: What option parts are available for the T1R? 
A: All of the available XRAY option parts may be used on the T1R.


Q: Which option parts should I buy? 
A: All of the components used on the T1R are of the highest quality, and the car can be run competitively without option parts. However, if you decide to use option parts on your T1R, it is up to you to decide what areas you think will benefit from option parts, and if you are looking to increase the durability of components, or the performance of components. Generally we suggest these basic option parts: complete set of springs and (if needed) a front one-way differential.


Q: What is difference between the composite C-hub suspension and the Alu version? 
A: The material used in the C-hub components determines their durability and strength. Composite components will tend to be lighter and less expensive than aluminum components, but will also be less rigid. You can choose which components to use to fine-tune the performance of your car, by choosing between softer or harder C-hub components. Please refer to the Suspension Guidelines for the kind of suspension that will fit best your driving style and your track condition. Please note that the basic suspension in the kit is a perfect starting point, all other optional suspension parts are used only for very fine tuning and used for top competition.


Q: What is the Inline-Flow Cooling System? 
A: The CAD-designed T1R chassis incorporates XRAY’s innovative Inline-Flow Cooling System™ that directs the air under the chassis to cool down the batteries and motor. The chassis was rigorously tested in an airflow tunnel to ensure smooth, directed, effective airflow.


Q: Is the T1R’s new “bathtub-style” chassis made of molded graphite or just regular hard plastic material? 
A: The chassis and all other composite parts are molded from a special mix of composite. It is different from the traditional graphite. The material enables all parts to be very rigid but to be also enough flexible as it is needed for maximum performance.


Q: Is the composite material temperature sensitive? 
A: The composite material is sensitive to very high temperatures. Prolonged exposure to very high temperatures will damage the composite and may cause it to deform. For example, do not leave the T1R in a sealed car during hot days.


Q: Will the T1R’s chassis be available separately, and will it be possible to “build over” all the stuff from my upgraded T1 car (with C-hub options) Or is it a completely new design? 
A: Yes, the chassis will be available separately and will fit the T1.


Q: Is the T1R chassis a more competitive version than the T1 Evo2 chassis? Is it an ideal outdoor circuit machine? 
A: Both are high competitive racing machines. It just depends how you set them up. The T1 EVO2 remains XRAY’s flagship car.


Q: What is difference between the alu ball differential and the spring steel version? 
A: The alu ball differential uses hardcoated duraluminum for its main components, while the spring steel ball differential uses Hudy Spring Steel. There are also several design features that distinguish the spring steel diff, such as double-slotted outdrives, ultra high durability, and maximum life. The spring steel ball diff weighs slightly more than the alu ball diff, but is more durable. If the weight is not a concern but you are looking for maximum life of the differential we strongly suggest you to purchase this option item.


Q: What is difference between the alu wheel axles and the spring steel versions? 
A: The spring steel wheel axles are a direct replacement for the original duraluminum wheel axles. The spring steel wheel axles are virtually impossible to damage or wear out. The wheel axles are strategically CNC-machined so they are as light as possible to reduce rotating mass, while maintaining ultimate strength.


Q: What diff balls are included with the T1R kit? 
A: Two alu ball differentials are included in the T1R kit.


Q: What axial bearing is there in the kit? 
A: The axial bearing uses larger balls for maximum efficiency and smoothness. The optional #309072 Carbide Axial bearing is available. This bearing includes carbide balls that ensure even higher smoothness and higher life span.


Q: Why does the T1R kit does not have alu shock bodies? 
A: The alu shock bodies are not included so as to keep the costs down on the T1R kit. The alu shock bodies do not offer any performance advantage, so there was no cost justification in including them. Note that many of the top competitive Team XRAY drivers use the standard composite shock bodies with great success.


Q: Why are there so many different arms and C-hubs of different hardness available? Do I need to spend more money and buy all of them? And when should I use which? 
A: The C-hub components used in the T1R are of the highest quality, and overall the car is very competitive at any racing level. Additional components of different rigidity are offered so that at highest-level competition, you can very finely tune the handling of your car. However, note that there are many other methods you can use to fine-tune the performance of your car, without requiring further investment in option parts.
Please refer to the Suspension Guidelines, which is an extensive chart that describes where these parts can be used to their best advantage.


Q: How much does the T1R weigh? Is it under the regulations? 
A: The kit itself weighs 695g and with standard electronics ready-to-run it weights 1450-1490g. The ready-to-run weight of the T1R kit depends largely on the components you use on the car, such as electronics, wheels/tires, body, and so on. Before competing at any level, ensure your T1R's ready-to-run weight is at or above the minimum specified weight. XRAY offers several types of additional weights to balance the T1R or add mass.


Q: I heard the chassis enables some unique mounting of the additional weights? 
A: The chassis has several locations to which you can mount additional weights. You can either easily make a hole and mount the weights to the chassis or use double-sided servo tape to attach the additional weights. The T1R chassis also has a specially-designed central channel, part of the Inline-Flow Cooling System, into which you can mount central weights from the underside of the chassis to ensure the lowest possible CG.


Q: Why the T1R includes the old-fashioned dual belt system, when all the new touring cars use shaft or single belt? 
A: We would like not to get into this controversial debate as everybody has their own point of view and preferences. The type of car you decide upon depends on your taste, preference, and experience. Therefore there is no real answer but we would like to bring you the facts. Each manufacturer claims their transmission to be the most effective and it is a fact that each drive train system has advantages and disadvantages. Only in very top competition can a few top drivers recognize the differences, and be able to gain advantages in certain conditions. However, those top drivers will also encounter the disadvantages of that particular drive train; therefore always the best balance must be found in top competition. For most racing, there is no way this kind or that kind of drive train will make a large difference, and there are many another much more important factors to give the maximum free drive train: optimal tension of belts, maximum cleanliness of all bearings and transmission parts, maximum free movement of all rotating parts, etc. There are plenty of other factors that make a performance difference and as such should be considered first: tires/inserts/wheels are of utmost importance, aerodynamics, shocks, and of course power equipment have great importance. For top competition even suspension hardness and flex and chassis flex are tricky areas to consider. After extensive design analysis and real world testing, it was found that the dual-belt drive system is at the same performance level as any other drive train system and has even some more advantages like the best acceleration at the start. And remember the basic rule, it is driving ability that wins the race.


Q: Will there be a single-belt upgrade? 
A: There are currently no plans for a single-belt upgrade.


Q: What is the Hudy Spring Steel material that you advertise all around? 
A: Hudy Company is world-renown for manufacturing only the highest quality RC products. One of their main assets is their very own self-developed top-secret Hudy Spring Steel. This special material enables them to manufacture the most rigid parts that are almost impossible to wear-out. That is why Hudy was contracted to manufacture all the transmission parts that are utmost importance for performance but also durability during a crash. Using this special material it was possible to manufacture the world’s tiniest drive shafts that are though still the most rigid and strong. All the turnbuckles are made from this special material as well. XRAY is happy to be one of the very few manufacturers to use these special parts. You will recognize those parts by typical brown color.


Q: I like the alloy bulkheads? Aren’t they expensive for this kind of car? 
A: Yes, the alloy bulkheads are very expensive to manufacture. Additionally they are even polished for great looks. The reason why T1R features these exclusive alloy bulkheads is to ensure the rigidity of the assembled chassis, thus eliminating unwanted chassis flex and to enable the whole car to be extremely easy to set-up and service. Bulkhead rigidity, quality, and durability are of particular importance, as all other suspension components attach to them. You can disassemble and assemble the car 1000+ times without experiencing any wear. The alloy bulkheads enable you to attach the suspension easily so that all servicing and setup is extremely easy. Any cost savings of using composite bulkheads does not justify the unwanted chassis flex that would result and decreasing the comfort of using, tuning, and setting the T1R.


Q: The alloy bulkheads on the T1 Evo2 are hardcoated, but those on the T1R are not hardcoated. Why not?  
A: The T1 EVO2 is XRAY’s flagship touring car, and as such the bulkheads are hardcoated for maximum life. To keep costs down on the T1R, the alloy bulkheads were not hardcoated. There is no performance difference. The T1R can be 1000+ assembled/disassembled because of the bulkheads that are the skeleton of the car.


Q: Are the turnbuckles adjustable? 
A: All the turnbuckles used on the T1R are adjustable, and have opposite threads on each end. This allows you to adjust the lengths of the turnbuckles without removing one end or the other. Also, all turnbuckles are made from Hudy Spring Steel for highest durability. Of course a turnbuckle tool is included in the kit for easy turnbuckle adjustment.


Q: How can I assemble the turnbuckles easily? 
A: There is a very easy way to assemble the turnbuckles. Use the turnbuckle tool to hold the turnbuckle. Use pliers to grab the flat part of the ball joint (across the area where the pivot ball goes through), or pass an Allen wrench or pin through the hole where the pivot ball goes. Insert the turnbuckle into the end of the ball joint. Make sure you notice which way the thread goes (CW or CCW), so you know which way to twist the ball joint to thread it onto the turnbuckle. Thread the ball joint onto the turnbuckle by twisting the pliers or the pin.
Do not use pliers on the “barrel” part of the ball joint where the turnbuckle threads into, as you may damage or deform the ball joint. If this happens, you may not be able to thread the turnbuckle all the way into the ball joint.


Q: Does the T1R have a one-way diff or differentials? 
A: The T1R uses two ball differentials. However, XRAY offers an optional front one-way differential and also a central layshaft with adjustable one-way action.


Q: I race in wet conditions; can I use the car in rain as well? 
A: The chassis has a place for electronics that can be easily covered. XRAY will offer an original cover; meanwhile any homemade cover can be used as well.


Q: Where can I put the transponder? 
A: There are several ways to mount a transponder on the T1R. One is to put the transponder at the front of the car, in the front bumper. This can be done by removing a section of the front upper bumper brace, and removing foam material from the front bumper. The transponder can then be placed in the foam bumper, and secured to the front bodyposts. The T1R also comes with a transponder mount that can be attached to the chassis on either the left or right side. Before you mount your transponder, check with the racing organization with which you plan to compete, to see if there are rules governing transponder placement.


Q: Is the T1R better suited for big, fast tracks or small, technical tracks? 
A: The T1R is suited for all kinds of tracks. To gain maximum performance of your T1R at a particular track you can use different tires or body, or adjust suspension setup.


Q: Why are there no tires and inserts included with the T1R? 
A: There are no tires and inserts in the kit. The reason is that the T1R is a competition racing kit, not a toy. As there are many, many different tires and inserts available, and track conditions vary from track to track, it was decided not to include any tires, as everybody uses their own tires and inserts.


Q: What kind of wheels, tires, and inserts can be used on the T1R? 
A: The T1R uses standard touring car wheels, tires, and inserts. Rubber tires can be used, as well as foam tires.


Q: What kind of body would be best to run on the T1R? 
A: As with tires and inserts, body choice is personal preference, and may also be dictated by racing restrictions. You can use any 190mm touring car body.


Q: Is it easy to build and adjust the XRAY shocks? 
A: The XRAY shocks are easy to build (you can build adjustable or non-adjustable shocks), and even easier to adjust (there are 4 settings for damping adjustment, which can be set without disassembling the shocks).


Q: What springs are included in the kit? 
A: The kit includes different springs for front and rear: violet (medium) spring in front, and blue (medium-soft) springs in rear.


Q: What optional springs are available? 
A: A complete set of all XRAY Ultimate Racing Springs is available as part number #308390, or you can get the individual sets:
Yellow springs - super soft (#308393)
White springs - soft (#308394)
Blue springs - soft-medium (#308395)
Violet springs - medium (#308396)
Purple springs - medium-hard (#309397)
Red springs - hard (#308398)
There are four (4) springs per set, and a total of six (6) sets in the whole ultimate collection of springs.


Q: Can I use stick packs on the T1R? 
A: At this time only saddlepacks can be used in the T1R; the chassis design does not allow the use of stick packs.


Q: Is there a size restriction for the electronics in the T1R? 
A: All modern RC electronics used for competition will fit the T1R.


Q: Can any type or size of steering servo be used on the T1R? 
A: The T1R is designed to use standard sized servos.


Q: My standard size servo doesn’t fit into the T1R. With the “side-wall” on the chassis, the back edge of the servo hits the chassis when you try to attach it to the mounting posts. 
A: Some standard size servos have different “depths” than others, which is the distance between the bottom of the servo and the mounting tabs. Simply insert spacers between the servo tabs and the servo mounts, and tighten the servo securely.


Q: How can I change the wheelbase on the T1R, if I use the original non-removable shims? 
A: The wheelbase setting used on the T1R is very good for most tracks. If you want to adjust the wheelbase, remove the original shims (very easy to do) and replace them with the included removable adjustment clips. Please refer to the Set-Up Book for detailed information about adjusting wheelbase.


Q: How do I change rear toe-in? 
A: You can change rear toe-in by using adjustment clips between the lower suspension pin holders and the rear bulkheads. You add the clips to the rear holders, which are at the very back of the car; this makes it very easy to adjust. Please refer to the Set-up Book for detailed information about adjusting rear toe-in.


Q: What kind of anti-roll bars can be used on the T1R? 
A: The rear of the T1R can use the optional Rear Anti-Roll Bar Set (#303400). The front of the T1R can use the Front Anti-Roll Bar Set (#303460), which is a wire-type anti-roll bar set like the rear. You can also use the adjustable blade front anti-roll bar set (#302400) on the front of the T1R, you must purchase these additional items: #302032 Alu Nuts + #302040 Lower Suspension Holders.


Q: How do you adjust front caster on the T1R? 
A: Caster is very easy to set on the T1R's front C-hub suspension. With one caster block you can create several caster degrees. This depends on the type of caster block (standard is 3°) and the amount of front anti-dive you set (standard is 3° which gives 6° caster overall). You can also use other caster blocks available from XRAY... 0°, 3°, and 6°. Please refer to Set-up Book that exactly describes about the caster and how to set it. In the download area you will find an Xray Suspension Guidelines table that exactly describes what kind of blocks are available and which should be used for what exact racing conditions. Please note that the basic caster block will give you enough possibilities for basic tuning, all the optional caster blocks are used only for top competition when very fine tuning is required.


Q: Why there is no belt tensioner included? 
A: Separate belt tensioners put undue strain on the drivetrain, and wear out the belts. With the adjustable bulkheads in the T1R, you can easily adjust the belt tightness should you need to do so. Of course, we still do offer a belt tensioner as an option part (#303070).


Q: The pivot balls on the T1R attach by threading screws through them into the components (like composite arms, etc.). After repeated assembly/disassembly, won't this cause the threaded holes in the composite parts to wear out? 
A: Yes, after very numerous assemblies/disassemblies the threads may start to wear slightly in composite parts. However, life expectancy of all the parts is still very high, and will not require frequent changing of the composite parts. While designing the parts, we implemented use of the longest possible screws, so the wear rate is kept to a minimum.


Q: I have stripped the thread on the rear upright where the small screw holds on the pin. 
A: Be very careful when tightening the small screws so as not to strip the threads. As a quick remedy, remove the screw, add a drop or two of CA glue, and rethread into the upright. We recommend you replace any parts that have stripped threads, being very careful when you thread the new screws.


Q: How should I mount those double bevel shoulder pivot balls to the composite pivot balls? It is very tough to snap them into ball joints. 
A: There is a very easy way to install pivot balls into ball joints. Pass the screw through the pivot ball, place the pivot ball against the ball joint, and thread the screw into the composite part. Tighten until the pivot ball snaps itself into the ball joint, and then tighten the whole assembly.


Q: I am having a terrible time threading the lower plastic part onto the shock piston rod. I've used a 3mm tap as well as a 3mm bolt to pre-thread the plastic, but I can't get this part installed as per the instructions. I've tried using my side cutters to grip the shock shaft but it still slips. How do you manage to get this part on the shaft leaving the 1mm threads exposed? I'm frustrated and my build has stalled because of this problem. 
A: When threading the ball-joint, consider using an M3 bottoming tap to cut threads all the way to the bottom of the hole.

When threading the ball-joint onto the piston rod, if you find that you cannot grip the piston rod at the top of the threads (because the sidecutter itself prevents the ball-joint from tightening any further), try gripping the shock rod just slightly above the threads on the shock rod itself. This should not be a problem since this part of the shock rod will not enter the shock body (and O-ring) during normal operation.

If this method does not work, or if you are hesitant on using side cutters on the shock rod, perhaps use a shock rod gripping tool to help tighten the ball-joint.

If you cannot sufficiently tighten the ball-joint to obtain the indicated 1.0mm gap, this is not a problem. The gap can be slightly larger, but MUST be the same for all four shocks. Do not overtighten the ball-joint on the shock rod, since this may bind the lower end of the shock on its ballend, or you may damage the ball-joint.


Q: I just purchased an XRAY T1R and I'm currently in the process of building it. I was completely impressed with how well the parts went together, that is, up until I attempted to put the ball joints on the shock shafts. Is there no way the hole for the shaft could be just a little bigger? I have totally destroyed TWO pairs of side cutters trying to assemble these ridiculous things. The force one has to apply to keep the shaft from rotating is unbelievable. I had to take a break from building in fear that I would throw the whole thing in the garbage. Why are these ball joints so impossibly difficult to install? 
A: Due to the adjustable nature of the shock absorbers, the lower balljoint must be tight on the shockshaft. If it is too loose, when you try to adjust the damping setting you would only turn the balljoint on the shaft instead of turning the shaft.

In the instruction manual we recommend that you pre-thread the lower balljoint with an M3 screw... this should help alleviate any problem with tight fit. When you are threading the balljoint onto the shockshaft, tighten it until you get a fair bit of resistance. You should not have to clamp the shockshaft so extremely tightly. Tighten it as much as you can to ensure it won't come off. If you don't get the prescribed 1mm gap (as per the manual) that is okay. However, you must ensure that all four shocks have the same length! That is critical to a well-handling car.

   
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